Food and Genocide

by Dorothy Lander

One hundred and seventy civilians, mostly schoolchildren, in southern Iran will never eat another morsel of food.

The deadly bombing of a primary school in Minab in southern Iran by  the United States Military Tomahawk missiles—twice so no accident— on February 28, 2026, swept me back to our Antigonish-based book launch this summer past of Creating in Dangerous Times, with author Celeste Nazeli Snowber.

A Mother’s Milk

A century earlier (1915), this same author’s mother survived the Armenian genocide and Celeste Nazeli Snowber’s earlier poetry collection The Marrow of Longing (2021) is replete with food stories.  Knowing that Iran and Armenia shared a border, I approached the Iranian mother and daughter team —Jebel and Afshan of Sour Cherry Bakery, an Antigonish-based Persian bakery with a weekly presence at the Antigonish Farmers Market, to cater to the book launch with an Armenian flavour.  I presented Afshan with a copy to The Marrow of Longing. In turn, the chefs offered a history lesson and a varied choice of delicious menu items.

Food as Cultural Bridge

During the Armenian genocide of 1915, many Armenians fled across the border into Iran, where they found relative safety and were able to settle. Iran already had an established Armenian community, but this wave of refugees allowed Armenians to create their own churches, districts, and schools, maintaining language, traditions, and cultural practices while sharing some aspects with Persian society. Dishes like dolma, boreg, lavash, and gata became cherished in both Armenian and Iranian cuisine — food served as a bridge between the communities.

This cultural overlap feels especially meaningful for Celeste’s book launch, which celebrates healing, sanctuary, and resilience. Sharing these traditional foods allows guests to experience the history and connection of two cultures that, like the themes in the book, have endured hardship and found ways to thrive.

Food as Poetry: A Healing Art

Afshan noted several Armenian foods mentioned throughout Celeste Nazeli Snowber’s 2021 HARP publication of The Marrow of Longing.

Grape leaf dolma (vegetarian): rice and herbs wrapped in grape leaves

Boreg: flaky pastry filled with cheese

Lahmajoon: flatbread topped with ground beef

Gata bread: a slightly sweet bread, often served as dessert

Lavash bread: thin, traditional bread, also common in Iranian cuisine, perfect with dips

Baba ghanoush: roasted eggplant dip

Raisin & peanut snack

Food as Story

Just as concerns of food security rise around the globe, many argue Israel has weaponized starvation in the Gaza genocide, Celeste Snowber’s poem Beneath the Skin of Plum Black serves as a compelling backdrop to this imposed misery:

Aromas took a second place

to hues of dark purple

it was your colours

my mother was

in love with.

Second-generation creativity

close to the bone

color is the heart

of my home

hidden in the eggplant

and hidden in life

My mother had a

eggplant soul

a beauty of both

rough and tender

dark and light

yellow white flesh

Encased in mauves

The meeting of art and life

just beneath the

skin of plum black.

No Pallet Cleanser for Colonialism

And now I’m left to wonder, while the US-Israeli missiles kill civilians in the thousands in the Middle East… will Iranian refugees a century later flee to Armenia? And what bread will be broken at those tables?

From Mi’kma’ki’s borders to those in the Middle East, we at HARP wish peace—including food security— upon and throughout your unceded territories.

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